Tag: northwest territories

Fort Smith, NT

I was up to Wood Buffalo National Park in the Northwest Territories in September. The weather was good, only towards the end of the week did it dip below zero overnight. The first night it was clear and we were able to see some of the aurora borealis.

Not as much wildlife this trip. Only a few bears.

Saw the same bison going to and from the site each day.

Grosbeak Lake. Didn’t have much time, we went after we finished work the last day, and with the days getting shorter, we didn’t get to go all the way out.

Parks Canada was renovating the paths at the Salt Plains Area, so it was closed off. There was still some of the salt flats at Grosbeak.


If Only Work Didn’t Get In The Way

Day 1

I spent the past week up in Fort Smith, NT for work. The weather was excellent for the week, about 15 degrees and sunny. Sunset was around 10:15 pm, but it stayed light after that. There was no shortage of wildlife on this visit. It is a full day of travel, leaving Toronto at 8:00 with a connection in Edmonton, switching to Northwestern Air for a two flight to Fort Smith.

Day 2

The first day out to the site we saw about 7 bears and a few bison. The first bear we saw was actually grazing with a couple of bison.

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The bison are still shedding their winter coats.

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You can see the black bear in the background.

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Another black bear further down the road. Most of them would look up from grazing and then go back to what they were doing.

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This bear was spotted only about two kilometres from our site, just past the white sign on the left side of the road is a power corridor that leads to our site. Fortunately we didn’t have any visitors during the week.

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I had a meeting with a potential site operator in the evening, but after I finished, my colleague and I headed down to the river to see the pelicans. Those white specks in the rapids are White Pelicans.

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Due to the dry weather conditions the bugs haven’t been as bad as previous trips. I knew there was a trail down to the rapids, but the bugs have usually deterred any attempt at finding the trail.

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It’s only about a 20 minute walk down a steep trail to hit the river. There was still ice along the shore in the dense brush. The pelicans near the Rapids of the Drowned.

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American White Pelican (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos) nest on islands near the rapids, they then spend most of their time feeding in the waters below the rapids.

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The pelicans in the water near the rapids.

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This one looks like it is going to land on the other ones back.

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The White Pelican has the second largest average wingspan of any North American bird, after the California Condor.

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Looking north along the Slave River.

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Day 3

On the drive back to town we came across a herd of bison coming towards us. I pulled the truck over to the side of the road and waited for them to pass. Normally they are just grazing, but this group was on the move. There may have been wolves in the area.

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They had five calves with them.

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They were keeping an eye on us as they approached.

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It was an amazing sight to see, every time I go it’s something different.

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Listen to the sound of the herd running past. As I turn to catch the stragglers I have to point the camera in the direction of the wind  so the sound is a little loud.

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Further back were more bison and a couple were running down the highway trying to catch up. Eventually they slowed down as they got closer to the truck.

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We stopped in at the Salt Plains, as we heard there were some Whooping Cranes in the area. Wood Buffalo National Park is the last remaining nesting grounds in the wild.

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The salt was the thickest and most abundant I have ever seen it.

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The Salt Plains are formed by water that has percolated through underground salt deposits left by an ancient sea around 390 million years ago. At the location of the Salt Plains, impermeable bedrock has forced the saline water to the surface. As the water evaporates, salt deposits are left behind.

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This was Tom Lynn, a professional photographer who was up in the Park on a grant from the International Crane Foundation. I went to see a talk given by him the first night on a project that raises chicks for release in the wild.

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A bison patty that is encrusted in salt, it looked like a cinnabun.

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On the previous friday a bear had gotten into a truck that was parked at the Salt Plains. The doors were closed but not locked. The bear opened the door and ripped up the front seat and then went for a coffee cup. The story made CBC news. I met the guy who owned the truck.

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Day 4

By the fourth day we were more selective about when we slowed right down for the bears and bison, but sometimes when they were right on the road you had no choice.

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They look so soft and fluffy.

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We met up with the herd that was running down the highway the day before. The calves were curious when the truck stopped.

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An adult chewing away on some of the roadside grass.

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A video of the grazing bison.

On the way back to town we saw a mother and cub. I slowed the the truck figuring they would take off in the bush.

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But the hung around, here is the mother keeping a watchful eye on us.

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Eventually they decided to keep going.

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In the evening we headed out to Grosbeak Lake which is actually on the Alberta side of the park. It has often been compared to a moonscape.

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There were some bear prints in the mud, they last until the next rain and then disappear.

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A wolf print.

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I’m holding a big chunk of salt.

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A ridge of salt.

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It you didn’t know it was salt, it would look like snow.

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These salt corroded boulders are laying everywhere, some are pretty big and as you walk further out you’re always checking that none of them are moving (i.e. bear).

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More tracks by birds.

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These are American Avocet (Recurvirostra americana).

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The ground is very dry. When you peel it back, it’s like layers of soggy cardboard.

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This photo was taken around 8:30 pm.

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Day 5

The last day was another travel day, we left Fort Smith, NT at 10:00 am and headed for Edmonton.

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The Northwestern Air plane is a Jetstream 31 that seats 19 passengers. The flight to Edmonton only had 8 passengers.

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Then it was an afternoon flight from Edmonton to Toronto. Waiting to board at YEG.

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A Week in Fort Smith, NT

I spent the past week up in the Northwest Territories. A colleague and I were back to our Wood Buffalo National Park site to install satellite communications and modify some of our equipment. We lucked out with the weather, although the Tuesday was about -24° Celsius, on the Wednesday it got up to -6° C. There was about 30cm of snow on the ground. This was the sunrise from the airport taken on the Friday. Sunrise was around 9:00am and sunset at 4:15pm.

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Fort Smith, NT

I was back up to Wood Buffalo National Park to finally install the equipment at our new site. It was a long week, left on the Sunday and back the following Saturday. A view out of the Jetstream 32 aircraft from Edmonton to Fort Smith.

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It can hold 19 passengers, but rarely is it completely full.

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The Slave River.

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The Welcome Sign outside the airport.

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We had good weather for most of the days. In the past the bison I have seen have usually been by themselves. this time we came across herds while driving to the site.

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There had to be at least 40 bison on both sides of the highway.

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The sunset as we left the site the first day.

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We came across the same herd the next morning, this guy was walking along the road as we drove by, we were close enough we could have slapped it on the ass as we drove by.

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We also saw this wolf, we saw a fox and lots of black bears during the week.

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The herd, it was an amazing site to see so many, they walk on both sides of the highway as well as the road.

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We woke up to snow on the Wednesday morning, there was enough to brush off, but it only fell near town as the site didn’t have any snow when we got there, however there was some freezing rain for part of the morning.

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Looking west along highway 3.

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On the last day I was heading back into town and saw this guy up ahead walking down the middle of the road.

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As I slowed down, he wasn’t getting off the road for me. I came to a stop and waited for him to meander over to the shoulder eventually.

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Looking over the town and the Slave River.

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Northwest Territories

I was back up to Wood Buffalo National Park for a week to continue work on one of our new sites. The first day out to the site we saw the first of many Bison.

Fort Smith is the closest town, it sits on the Slave River.

Pelican Rapids, the white dots are American Pelicans that spend the summers in the area.

A beaver that came swimming by the shore.

Along with the Bison, we also saw a lot of black bears along the highway.

The Salt Plains.

Walked out onto the Salt Plains, the last time I came, it was too muddy and didn’t get very far. Some bison tracks on the Salt Plains.

Some bison droppings, it’s like a cloud in the sky, what does the dropping look like?

The salt plains are formed from salt that was left behind about 390 million years ago, when a prehistoric saltwater sea evaporated. Today, underground water dissolves the salt. The water is forced to the surface and evaporates and the salt is left behind.

The mosquitos were plentiful out on the Salt Plains.

These are the only salt plains in Canada and part of the reason Wood Buffalo National Park is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

This bear ambled across the highway and then headed for the power pole on the left. He stood on his hind legs and started rubbing his back against the pole.

The last day at the site, this bull was in the clearing, before heading down the power corridor.

These photos were taken from the back of a pickup truck.

By the end of the day he made it down to the far end of the power corridor by the highway and was soaking up the sun. These things are enormous.

We stopped at the Little Buffalo River Waterfalls.

One of the guys had his fly rod and was trying to catch some pike.

The plane we were going out on. Only Northwestern Air services Fort Smith. We had a friday morning flight back to Edmonton. I’ll be back a couple of more times this fall to complete the installation and probably for the opening of the site. Parks Canada is a partner and they are looking to make it a big deal for the site opening with first Nation elders and school groups involved.

The white patches are the Salt Plains from the plane.

First time I have seen an ice cream vending machine. Almost as cool as the beer vending machine I saw in Levis, QC. This one was at the Edmonton airport.


Ice Road Trucker

For 10 months of the year, the only way to access our site is by plane from Yellowknife. Given the time of year we were going in, the option of the ice road was possible. The road into the site opened at the end of January. The NT Power Corp flight schedules would only get us in, to get out we would have had to charter our own plane out. Going in by road made more sense if we could swing it. There were two of us from Toronto and one of our NT Environment colleague’s from Yellowknife. It is about a 4 hour drive from Yellowknife.

We crossed the first big lake (Marian Lake) and traveling at a speed of ~50-70km/hr it took an hour. The roads on the “ice” are wide and smooth for the most part.

The portages between the lakes are another story, just paths cut through the bush. The worse part was probably the small stretch of road going into the Snare Rapids hydro facility. It was extremely rough.


Snare Rapids, NT

I was in Snare Rapids, Northwest Territories for a week. The site is located about 140 km north of Yellowknife. With the ice road open, we were able to drive in to the site. The closest town is Wha Ti, which is only accessible by vehicle when the ice road is open.

There was a lot of ice fog created from the hydro-electric dam. It made for a nice coating of ice on the trees.

Despite it being north of 62 degrees N, there was still sun in mid-February.

You can see the cloud of ice fog that is rising over the Snare River. The dam’s capacity is 8 MW.

We had a rental truck from Yellowknife.

 

The one morning the temperature was at -38 degrees C.

The power corp has a full-time chef in camp, the second night this was our dinner, Alaskan king crab legs and steak.

 

The runway at the airport.

Back in Yellowknife.

Here I am outside the City of Yellowknife City Hall building.

Around city hall.

Buffalo Airways is located at the Yellowknife airport (YZF), home of the Ice Pilots television program.


A Week in Wood Buffalo National Park

Found my way back to Wood Buffalo National Park this past week. It was a long day of travel last Sunday, going from Toronto to Calgary to Yellowknife. Here is the view from the Maple Leaf Lounge, looking southwest towards the city and mountains.

The final leg was on Northwestern Air from Yellowknife to Fort Smith. Here is the Yellowknife baggage carousel. there was a large contingent of Japanese tourists on the flight from Calgary, they were on a northern lights tour.

We were staying in Fort Smith for the week.

The Northwest Territories licence plate.

The ravens are giant up there. This one was hanging around the truck.

There was no shortage of Wood Bison on the way to and from the site. Our site is approximately 100km from town.

Fort Smith is located on the Slave River.

The Pelican Rapids.

Wood Bison n the way to the park.

Wood Bison on the way back from the park. The most we saw going in one direction was six, chances were good that we saw the same ones on the way back. They don’t move very far during the course of the day.

Wood Buffalo National Park is the largest National Park in Canada and is home to a herd of 5000 plus free roaming Wood Bison. The park is also home to the last remaining wild migratory flock of whooping cranes left in the world.

A Wood Bison moving along the highway.

We also saw quite a few black bears through the week. The first day there were two that crossed the road on our way back to town. A couple of days later we saw a couple on the way out of town. This was the same guy, not as big as the first ones we saw.

Also located in the park is the Salt Plains.

The Salt Plains, extending over 200 square kilometres, are extremely rare, and one of the reasons Wood Buffalo Park was declared a World Heritage Site. Salt bubbles up in springs across the plains, in some places forming mounds up to two metres high. In spring the salt is dispersed across the landscape forming white patterns on the land. The salt is pure table salt, deposited many millions of years ago.

Just spectacular scenery up in this part of the country.

There were parts of the park that also experienced recent forest fire activity.

Leaving the park on the last day, there were some Wood bison near the park border.

The Wood bison is the largest North American mammal and can weigh up to a tonne.

The watch for buffalo sign on the road as you drive into the park.

It was a good week work wise, we completed what we had come up for and we saw an abundance of wildlife.

One last stop at Little Buffalo River Falls.

This is a Territorial Park close to Fort Smith.

A classic sign posted near the falls.

Back in town this fox came around when we were gassing up the truck.

It was very curious and had no fear of us.