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Tuesday, July 08, 2008

Anchorage to Fairbanks

It was an early start to the morning with a flight from Anchorage to Fairbanks at 6:00am.

Fairbanks map

It's even earlier when the body hasn't adjusted and it's still waking up at 3:30am. The flight was on Alaska Airlines.

Alaksa Airlines  

The plane was a 737-400 combo plane. The front half is for cargo and the seats start at the middle and towards the rear.

Alaskan Airlines  

As we flew from Anchorage to Fairbanks, Denali (Mount McKinley) rises from the clouds. Denali is the highest mountain peak on North America at 20,320 feet.

Denali  

I'm currently reading "Forever on the Mountain", it is a detailed account of the doomed 1967 Wilcox-McKinley Expedition. In the end only five of the twelve expedition members survived.

What I'm reading  

A closeup of Mount McKinley.

Denali  

Mount McKinley is located in the Alaska range.

Alaskan range  

Another view of Mount McKinley as we passed by.

Denali  

Eventually we hit the Interior area which is fairly flat and green.

Meandering river  

Making the approach into Fairbanks.

Approaching Fairbanks  

Fairbanks to Bettles

After landing in Fairbanks we had an hour before our flight to Bettles. Little did we know that we had to take a taxi to the other side of the airport to catch the air taxi. This was the airplane that took nine people to Bettles.

Cessna  

It was a cloudy, overcast day as we flew to Bettles.It took just over an hour to fly there.

Interior Alaska  

We flew over parts of the Alaska pipeline. That building in the middle of nowhere looked like some sort of sub-station for the pipeline.

Alaska pipeline  

There were lots of meandering rivers and oxbow lakes from when the path of the river changed.

Interior Alaska  

It might be hard to see but there was an area that appeared purple, it was probably from wildflowers, but it only seemed to be the one area.

Interior Alaska  

The float pond at Bettles. Bettles is a starting point for many people who go hiking/exploring in the Gates of the Arctic National Park. The only way in is by small float planes. We actually landed on the gravel airstrip.

Bettles float pond  

The city of Bettles, Alaska. The Koyukuk River runs nearby. The original Bettles started in 1899 as a gold rush trading post.

City of Bettles  

Bettles, Alaska

Bettles is further north than Iqaluit, Nu but not further north than Pond Inlet (or Alert). A map showing where Bettles is located.

Bettles map

The site was on the north side of town. Some of the trees had to be cut down and cleared. The ground was like walking on sponge. It wasn't flat and some places would suck you in. Below it a few feet is the permafrost layer.

Clearing trees  

This building was made in Fairbanks and brought up to Bettles on the ice road last winter. There was no power at the site yet, it seems the National Park Services gets tied up in the same red tape and levels of bureaucracy that we encounter when setting up our sites. They had a portable generator for the training of the operators.

Site building  

The airstrip at Bettles is quite busy, they are three air taxi companies that fly in and out a couple of times a day.

Plane traffic  

It was very quiet and peaceful at the site, save for when the generator was going. Also the constant hum of the mosquitos in your ear was distracting.

Bettles  

This guy was hanging on the wall in the lounge of the lodge I was staying in.

Moose head  

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Around Town

I can now say I have been to the remote interior of Alaska and survived. On the second day I went for a walk around town. And when I say town it is just a few buildings. It wasn't quite 24 hour sun, but pretty close, there were only a few hours of night, the days would start getting shorter by a few minutes each day until they hit 24 hour dark by November. This is the building I stayed in, it is part of the Bettles Lodge.

Aurora Lodge  

This is the new National Park Service Visitor Centre that was being built. It was replacing a previous one which burnt down a few years ago. The NPS, the Fish and Wildlife Service, airport and the Bettles Lodge are the main employers.

NPS Visitor Centre  

There are only two lodges in town, but both are now owned by the same person. It use to be separate families and it was pretty much a Hatfield-McCoy type of deal. Eventually one drove the other out of business.

Spirit Lodge  

A close-up of the moose skull.

Moose skull  

Much of the time I was in Bettles it was sunny, partly cloudy. Yesterday we watched a storm blow around us. There was thunder and lightening, but we missed most of it.

Airport  

Some stats on Bettles. Although it is called Bettles it is really Bettles Field, the original town is downstream, but was pretty much abandoned once the airstrip was built.

Bettles sign  

The main Bettles Lodge. There is a large portion of tourists from Japan and Germany. The majority of them pay big bucks to come in February-March during the prime Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) viewing period.

Bettles Lodge  

It is a Historic Place.

Historical plaque  

The Bettles Ranger Station. Most of the National Parks Service staff are seasonal, except for one lone guy who stays through the winter to keep the buildings going.

Ranger Station  

We had to make another trip out to the site. The mosquitoes were even worse than the previous day. Those birds in the picture are actually mosquitoes.

Giant mosquitos  

Everyone had on their bug dope and bug jackets on today.

Fully dressed  

Here I am in front of the lodge.

Me inBettles  

Thursday, July 10, 2008

South of Anchorage

I had some time on my last day in Anchorage to take in some sights. I decided to rent a car and drive south of Anchorage towards Portage Lake.

Drive map  

This is Turnagain Arm, you can see the mudflats in the foreground. A couple of people have died after venturing out and getting stuck in the fine silt and then being unable to get their leg free as high tide comes in.

Turnagain Arm  

This is McHugh Creek, just one of many that flow down towards Turnagain Arm.

McHugh Creek  

This was Beluga Point, didn't see any belugas though because of the low tide.

Beluga Point  

Looking east in towards the arm.

Looking east  

A compass on the ground to orient yourself.

Compass  

Along the highway  

Some wildflowers near one of the lookouts.

Flowers

Most of the drive was in cloudy overcast skies.

Alaska  

A timer picture of me.

Me in Alaska

Turnagain Arm is one of the few places in the world (about 60 places) that have tidal bores. The Bay of Fundy being one of the larger tidal ranges.  

Cloudy  

This was closer to the Portage turnoff.

Near Portage  

There was no sign prohibiting the use of firearms.

Target practice  

I was able to see a moose in his natural habitat.

Moose in the wild  

And then I saw some muskox by the side of the road.

Muskox  

And wouldn't luck have a brown bear was off in the distance.

Brown bear  

There were a couple of wood bison minding their own business.

Wood Bison  

I wasn't sure if this moose was thinking of charging.

Moose  

You must of figured out by now that these animals weren't quite as free and wild as they look. Close to the Portage Lake turnoff is the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Centre. This place takes in injured or orphaned animals. You can either drive through it or park and walk through. Here is a close-up of the Wood Bison, this herd was from Canada, they are there for a couple of years and then they will be released into the wild.

Wood Bison 

They had the Sitka Black Tailed deer and elk mixed in together.

Deer  

Caribou or "reindeer" grazing in their compound.

Caribou

This was a Plains Bison different from the Wood Bison above.

Plains Bison  

The brown bear sitting for a picture. As you can see there isn't much between the bear and me, it is about 6ft away, behind an electric fence, the fence and then a rail fence on my side.

Brown bear  

This cabin is the remenants of the 1964 earthquake that hit Alaska, it register 9.2 on the Ricter scale, the largest ever in the Northern Hemisphere. The town of Portage was destroyed, and many areas dropped so much that the saltwater killed much of the low lying forests and surrounding vegetation.

Earthquake cabin  

This bird kept flying around when I was walking along a trail.

Bird  

Flowers

This is Portage Lake, the icebergs are from the Portage Glacier. The glacier comes down and enters the water and extends about 100 feet into the water.

Portage Lake  

Icebergs  

The glacier use to extend right across the lake, in order to see it close-up you need to take a cruise boat up to the face of it.

Portage Lake  

If you drive a little further there is a viewpoint where you can actually see part of the glacier.

Portage glacier  

The Begich-Boggs Visitor Center, the glacier use to reach the visitor center in 1911.

Visitor centre  

This either the Burns or Byron glacier.

Portage Lake area  

A hanging glacier in the distance.

Hanging glacier  

Portage Lake area  

Friday, July 11, 2008

Heading Home...

It was another full day of travel, I was flying from Anchorage to Minneapolis and then to Toronto. My flight left at 9:30am Alaska time and arrived at 10:08pm Toronto time.

Anchorage airport  

Anchorage off in the distance.

Anchorage  

Inside the airport.

Airport  

The airport is quite busy, there is alot of Cargo planes that are coming from Asia and then heading south.

Airplane  

This cargo plane from Korean Air landed and took off shortly after we did. It must have just been refueling.

Korean cargo plane  

Korean Air  

Flying over the mountains.

Mountains  

It was weird looking out the window and seeing another plane flying next to us. It was the Korean Air cargo plane that was flying faster at a lower altitude.

Korean Air  

From the air

Closer to Minneapolis we went by a nice set of clouds. 

High cumulus  

While we were waiting to take-off I watched as my luggage (the duffle bag) was brought over from the other plane, it was nice to see it being loaded. But a few minutes later I watched as they took it back off along with other bags, I was thinking they may be redistributing the weight, but it turned out there was a no show, so they had to remove the bags.

My luggage  

Here is my bag being loaded for a second time.

My luggage again  

One last map to show how big Alaska is. If superimposed on a map of the Lower 48, it would take up one-sixth the area, it is over twice the size of Texas.

AK superimposed over Lower 48  

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Deep River Trip

I spent the week in the Deep River/Chalk River area. I was up at our site located in the AECL facility at Chalk River. I stayed in Deep River this time. It is a lot closer than Pembroke which was nicer. The restaurant choices are limited, so we did end up down in Pembroke one night. All the towns in that area are along the Ottawa River.

Deep River  

We had a good week of weather, unlike the Toronto area that had a lot of rain and thunderstorms. Deep River is located across the river from the Laurentians.

Ottawa River  

The town of Deep River was constructed in 1944 by the federal government as part of the Manhatten Project for employees at the Chalk River nuclear facility. The population is approximately 4300 and suprisingly it has its own police force.

Deep River Town Hall  

Tuesday, August 05, 2008

From One Coast to the Other

Within the span of a month I have traveled to both coasts. This week I am in Newfoundland, in the Deer Lake/Corner Brook area. I am here to re-start a sampling program that had been shut down last year due to budget cuts. I am staying in Corner Brook during my short stay.

Corner Brook, NL  

This is the Humber Arm which comes into Corner Brook.

Humber Arm  

The Port of Corner Brook get both container and cruise ships coming into port.

Ship leaving Corner Brook  

Corner Brook is a Pulp and Paper town.

Pulp & Paper Mill  

Tuesday, October 07, 2008

Domaine Lac Edouard

We were staying at Domaine Lac Edouard, it is about 18km from where our site is located. The lodge sits on the lake which is quite large. In the early morning it was very peaceful, not such a bad thing after hitting a moose.

Lac Edouar  

Lac Edouard  

Lac Edouard  

Lac Edouard

The lodge.

Lac Edouard

Monday, October 20, 2008

Third Time Zone...

I'm in my third time zone in three weeks. This week I'm in Regina, will be here all week. The weather should be good for most of the week.

Bratt's Lake  

My ride for the week, a Honda CRV, notice how clean it is.

CRV  

In case you forgot how flat the prairies really are.

Flat  

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

The Living Skies

It rained Tuesday morning, and when it rains out here it gets messy. The soil sticks to your shoes and you grow a few inches. We went to Dog River (Rouleau) and had lunch at the Dog River Hotel. Not sure what will happen to Rouleau now that Corner Gas has wrapped up for good. The CRV after traveling the Rouleau road.

Muddy CRV  

A few sunset photos from the site.

Sunset

Sunset  

Along the RY Trail and Correction Rd.

Sunset  

The land of the living skies.

Living skies  

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Ferry Ride

From Rivière-du-Loup, it was an early start to catch the ferry at Matane.

Ferry  

It is a 2 hour ferry trip across the St. Lawrence River to Godbout.

St Lawrence  

Ferry

It was on to Sept-Îsles and then the site in Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan. It was another long day, about 6 hours after we got off the ferry.

Sunset  

St Lawrence  

Sunset  

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Heading Back

Things went well with the installation and it was time for the long drive back to Toronto. It was only back to Sept-Îles the first day.

Mingan  

The accommodations for the week.

Accommodations

The big puffin.

Puffin

The big whale.

The whale  

Another big puffin in front of the store.

Puffin  

Monday, November 17, 2008

Change of Plans

The weather wasn't co-operating forcing us to make a change in our itinerary back to Toronto. We arrived at the ferry terminal, only to find out that due to the weather the ferry had been cancelled. It meant we had to drive back along the north shore along highway 138. The drive along the north side is a little more hilly and the highway isn't as nice. We did have to take another ferry at Tadoussac across the Saguenay River.

Ferry  

Our rental van.

Rental

Our stop for the night was in Lévis, just outside of Quebec City. Not sure what this building was, but it looked like it was cut in half.

Building  

Tuesday, February 03, 2009

Around The Camp

Temperatures for the week were hovering around -15°C during the daytime and in the -20's overnight. We lucked out with the weather, usually it is colder and overcast when I'm here at this time of the year.

ELA site

Our ride for the week was a 2009 Dodge Durango.

Rental car

Here is the sticker price that I found in the glovebox.

Sticker price  

A row of buried ATV's that they use in the summer.

ATV's

Main camp

If you got off the main path the snow was deep.

Deep snow

Footprints

Site  

Found this fake cat in the residence. When it was sitting on the couch it looked pretty real.

Cat  

Wednesday, February 04, 2009

Following the Path

The camp manager has a new puppy, it is a 12 week old Newfoundland dog.

Taiga  

His name is Taiga.

Taiga  

There was a path behind the building, so I followed it.

The woods

Some snow caught in the tree.

Snow in tree  

This one looked like a sea serpent.

Snow creature  

The path leads up to the top of a ridge behind the site. I found a cairn at the top.

ELA cairn  

The cairn is dedicated to the spirit and people of ELA.

Plaque

Looking towards the southeast.

ELA

Looking southwest.

ELA

I didn't have time to explore the path any further.

Snow path

Trying to take my own picture with the new camera, not as easy as with the point and shoot.

Me  

Some moss hanging from a branch.

Moss

Tree

Lots of rabbit tracks, but didn't see any while I was there.

Tracks  

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

In the Middle of Nowhere

It was cloudy most of the day, but just before leaving the site the sun came out.

Esther  

The site is in the middle of grazing land.

Esther

My ride for the week is another Jeep Liberty.

Rental vehicle

Looking towards the north.

Esther  

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Where's Richard?

This was the first morning that the sun was out, but it also meant it was going to be a cold one.

Sunrise in Oyen  

The road into the site, definitely one site where a 4x4 is required.

Tracks

This is what some of our newer buildings look like, vandal and rodent proof.

CAPMoN hut  

The temperature was -24°C and with the wind it was -34°C windchill.

Cold  

This is something new that we have started using, it is a Satellite Personal Tracker, also known as SPOT. It allows us to check-in with the office while we are in the field to let them know we are okay and have made it to where we are suppose to be. It has four functions, it can send an e-mail for help, an e-mail to say OK, a 911 emergency request or it can track your movement. A lot of times we are in areas where there is no cell coverage, this allows us to still check in with the office.

SPOT  

It uses the GPS satellites to pin point your location and then it uses the communication satellites to send out an e-mail to people on your list. Each e-mail has a Google maps link that shows where you are. It also allows you to have shared web pages that show your movements. They say that if that couple from Montreal who got lost near Golden, BC had a SPOT they would have been found within hours and not 10 days later.

SPOT Shared page

A few more photos as I was leaving the site to drive back to Edmonton.

Esther  

Esther  

Esther  

Grain elevator  

The huge holding tanks near Hardisty, AB.

Hardisty

Tank farm

A Google maps satellite view.

Google map view of tank farm  

The setting sun in Leduc, AB. Staying out near the airport before flying back to Toronto friday morning.

Leduc sunset  

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Goose Bay, Labrador

I'm in Labrador this week for a few days. I lucked out with the weather, it was sunny today and a some of the same for tomorrow. This is my first visit to Goose Bay and Labrador. Here is a map showing Goose Bay.

Goose Bay map  

There is about 150 cm of snow on the ground.

Goose Bay

The site is located at an Environment Canada Upper Air site located in town.

 Upper Air Station

My car rental is a Pontiac G6.

Rental Car

There is a lot of snow here.

Snow

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Now This Is Snow

This site also does upper atmosphere measurements for Environment Canada as well as tropospheric ozonesondes. On this morning the operator was doind an ozonesonde.

Operator  

It was a bright sunny day, but not too cold, only around -5°C.

Sunny day  

Preparing the weather balloon.

Balloon

Ready to launch, prior to launch they have to get permission from the local airport.

Ready for launch  

Up, up and away

Balloon release  

Goose Bay  

This intersection had five stop signs. You can count four of them, plus the one I was stopped at.

5 Stop signs  

Some of the snow is up to the second floor. This is all snow that has fallen, no drifting here.

Snow banks  

The snowbanks are almost twice as high as my car.

Rental car

The snow is higher than the stop signs.

Stop sign  

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